Archive - November 2000
Christy’s hats are available from Smart Country on Low Petergate in York. Miller Christy founded the Christys’ hat business in 1773. Behind the name lies not only a tradition for quality and hand craftsmanship, but a history spanning back over 200 years. Their wide range of headwear encompasses fedoras, panamas, caps, riding bowlers, dressage hats and eventing hats. Perfect for country pursuits. Christys & Co. at Smart Country York are the leading manufacturing hatter in Great Britain. Established in London in 1773 they have a worldwide reputation for craftsmanship, style and excellence in traditional, classic and modern headwear. Throughout the world when people see a Christy hat at Smart Country York, they know there has been no compromise in quality and that the hat on their head bears the tradition started by Miller Christy all those years ago.
The price of a Panama hat usually reflects how finely it has been woven. A more finely woven Panama takes much more time to make. Each piece of straw is split by hand and then woven. The more times the straw is split, the finer the weave, generally producing a Panama of greater quality. Panamas can be woven so finely and tightly that they can actually carry water. There has been a Panama for sale in the USA in 2011 at the price of $100,000. It is exquisite and took the maker 5 months to complete.
Whilst not quite as expensive as the above mentioned Panama, Christys’ Panamas at Smart Country York are of beautiful quality, and are genuine Panama Hats, hand woven in Ecuador using Fibres from the ‘Paja Torquilla Palm’ and then handmade in England. The Panama hat was made famous as protection from the sun by men building the Panama Canal. Today we all need protection from the sun’s harmful rays. The Panama at Smart Country York is a smart classic solution.
Robert Smart Menswear in York are a Harris Tweed stockist. Harris Tweed is cloth that has been handwoven by the islanders of Lewis, Harris, Uist and Barra in their homes, using pure virgin wool that has been dyed and spun in the Outer Hebrides. This is the definition of Harris Tweed contained in the Harris Tweed Act of 1993 and it ensures that all cloth certified with the Harris Tweed Orb symbol complies with this definition and is genuine Harris Tweed, the world’s only commercially produced handwoven tweed.
The story of Harris Tweed is the story of a remote island community that lies between the Highlands of Scotland on the north west tip of Europe and the North Atlantic Ocean.
For centuries the islanders of Lewis, Harris, Uist and Barra have woven the magical cloth the world knows as Harris Tweed, Clo Mhor
in the original Gaelic- ‘The big cloth’.
From time immemorial, the inhabitants of the West of Scotland, including the Outer Hebrides had made cloth entirely by hand. As the Industrial Revolution reached Scotland, the mainland turned to mechanisation but the Outer Islands retained their traditional processes. Lewis and Harris had long been known for the excellence of the weaving done there, but up to the middle of the nineteenth century, the cloth was produced mainly for home use or for a purely local market.
In 1846, Lady Dunmore, widow of the late Earl of Dunmore, had the Murray tartan copied by Harris weavers in tweed. This proved so successful that Lady Dunmore devoted much time and thought to marketing the tweed to her friends and then to improving the process of production. This was the beginning of the Harris Tweed industry. At that time the method of making this handmade was as follows:
The raw material, wool, was produced locally and part of it would have been used in its natural uncoloured state, the rest was dyed. In the 19th century vegetable dyes were used. Following dyeing, the wool was mixed, the shade being regulated by the amount of coloured wool added; then it was oiled and teased; the latter process involves pulling the wool apart to open out the fibres. The next part of the preparation, carding, results in the fibres of the wool being drawn out preparatory to spinning. This was a very lengthy process followed by spinning carried out on familiar spinning-wheel by women. Until the turn of the century a very early type of handloom was used for weaving with a manually operated shuttle. The final process is finishing where the tweed is washed and given a raised compact finish. The involved in this process was often accompanied by songs in Gaelic.
As a result of the marketing efforts of Lady Dunmore, increased sales of the tweed were achieved and trade was established with cloth merchants in large towns in the UK.
At about the turn of the century the primitive small loom was replaced by the improved “fly-shuttle” loom. This was made of wood and heavier than the earlier loom tending to make weaving an occupation for men rather than women. Although originally imported from the Galashiels a local joiner started making the new type of loom in 1903.
Between 1903 and 1906 the tweed making industry in Lewis increased rapidly. Mr Aeneas Mackenzie’s carding mill in Stornoway added spinning machinery and a second mill was started by Mr Kenneth Mackenzie from whom one of the largest Harris Tweed producing companies in existence takes its name today.
At a meeting in Stornoway in 1906 efforts were considered for placing the industry on a more satisfactory footing. This was a most harmonious meeting and as the Trade Marks Act had been passed in 1905 making provision for a registration of Standardisation Marks, it seemed to be novel opportunity to end the increasing practice of offering mill-spun tweed as genuine Harris Tweed.
This meant the introduction of a system of whereby the tweed was inspected and, if passed, given a certifying stamp which would give confidence to the trade and public. A company limited by guarantee was formed under the title The Harris Tweed Association Limited. This was mainly to ensure the grant of a mark and an application was filed to register the well-known Harris Tweed Trade mark consisting of the orb and the Maltese Cross with the words Harris Tweed underneath. One of the objectives of obtaining a Mark was to protect the industry from the competition of the spinning mills.
The original definition read,”Harris Tweed means a tweed, hand-spun, hand-woven and dyed by the crofters and cottars in the Outer Hebrides”.
The Certification Mark was granted in 1909, registered in 1910 and stamping began in 1911. Amended Regulations were confirmed in June 1934 and the following was promulgated, “Harris Tweed means a tweed made from pure virgin wool produced in Scotland, spun, dyed and finished in Outer Hebrides and hand-woven by the islanders at their own homes in the Islands of Lewis , Harris, Uist, Barra and their several purtenances and all known as the Outer Hebrides”.
There could be added in legible characters to the Trade Mark, the words “Woven in Lewis”, “Woven in Harris”, “Woven in Uist” or “Woven in Barra” for the purpose of distinguishing where the tweed was made”.
The alteration in the Trademark Definition in 1934, allowing the use of millspun yarn, enabled the industry to make a huge leap in production. The stamped yardage increased tenfold and continued to increase till the peak figure of 7.6 million yards was reached in 1966.
The Hattersley single width loom The introduction of the Hattersley domestic loom in the 1920s enabled the weavers to produce more and to weave complicated patterns that could not be woven on the large wooden looms that were used for the previous 50 years.
This loom was brought to the islands by Lord Leverhulme who owned Lewis and Harris for some years and introduced many changes with mixed results.
The Hattersley loom is still used in the industry but is being replaced by the new Bonas-Griffith double width loom which was introduced in 1996 to satisfy market demands for wider, softer, lighter Harris Tweed. The Harris Tweed Association was the proprietor of the famous “Orb” Trademark. Throughout this century the HTA protected and promoted the Orb all over the world. The success of the industry meant that competitors tried to imitate Harris Tweed or pass off other fabrics as genuine. Much of the competition was from mainland Scotland and this led to a case at the Court of Session in 1964 that was, for a long time, the longest civil case in Scottish legal history. The judgement by Lord Hunter re-inforced the 1934 definition that tied all production processes to the Outer Hebrides and removed the threat of mainland competition. The years following the 1964 case were the most successful ever for Harris Tweed but, by the late 1980s the industry had begun to contract as fashions changed and the Harris Tweed jacket became less popular. The industry set out to transform itself by:
- producing a new double width loom
- re-training weavers
- introducing new, tougher Standards
- marketing the new wider, softer, lighter tweed.
The Harris Tweed Authority took over from the Harris Tweed Association in 1993 by Act of Parliament. Thus the definition of Harris Tweed at Robert Smart Menswear York became statutory and forever tied the cloth to the Islands:
Harris Tweed at Robert Smart Menswear York means a tweed which has been hand woven by the islanders at their homes in the Outer Hebrides, finished in the islands of Harris, Lewis, North Uist, Benbecula, South Uist and Barra and their several purtenances (The Outer Hebrides) and made from pure virgin wool dyed and spun in the Outer Hebrides.
The late 90s are a difficult time for the British textile industry and Harris Tweed is no exception. However there is confidence that the hard decisions taken to reform the industry will eventually bear fruit and secure the future of this unique product.
Harris Tweed at Robert Smart Menswear York (Clò Mór or Clò na Hearadh in Gaelic) is a cloth that has been handwoven by the islanders on the Isles of Harris, Lewis, Uist and Barra in theOuter Hebrides of Scotland, using local wool.
Traditional Harris Tweed at Robert Smart Menswear York was characterized by subtle flecks of colour achieved through the use of vegetable dyes, including the lichen dyes called “crottle” (Parmelia saxatilis and Parmelia omphalodes which give deep red- or purple-brown and rusty orange respectively). These lichens are the origin of the distinctive scent of older Harris Tweed.
The original name of the cloth was tweel, Scots for twill, it being woven in a twilled rather than a plain pattern. A traditional story has the name coming about almost by chance. About 1830, a London merchant received a letter from a Hawick firm about some tweels. The London merchant misinterpreted the handwriting, understanding it to be a trade-name taken from the river Tweed that flows through the Scottish Borders textile area. Subsequently the goods were advertised as Tweed, and the name has remained ever since.
During the economic difficulties of the Highland potato famine of 1846-7, Catherine Murray, Countess of Dunmore was instrumental in the promotion and development of Harris Tweed at Robert Smart Menswear York as a sustainable and local industry. Recognising its sales potential, she had the Murray family tartan copied in tweed by the local weavers and suits were made for the Dunmore estate gamekeepers and gillies. Proving a success, Lady Dunmore sought to widen the market by removing the irregularities caused by dyeing, spinning and weaving (all done by hand) in order to bring it in line with machine-made cloth. She achieved this by organising and financing training in Alloa for the Harris weavers and by the late 1840s a London market was established which led to an increase in sales of tweed.
With the industrial revolution the Scottish mainland turned to mechanisation, but the Outer Hebrides retained their traditional processes of manufacturing cloth. Until the middle of the 19th century the cloth was only produced for personal use within the local market. It was not until between 1903 and 1906 that the tweed-making industry inLewis significantly expanded. Production increased until the peak figure of 7.6 million yards was reached in 1966. However the Harris Tweed industry declined along with textile industries in the rest of Europe. Harris Tweed has survived because of its distinctive quality and the fact that it is protected by an act of Parliament limiting the use of the Sovereign’s Orb trademark to tweeds made in the Outer Hebrides of Scotland.
One high profile promotional success of Harris Tweed in recent years has been their use on several Nike running shoe designs including the Terminator, Blazer, and Air Force 1. Around 95 per cent of Harris Tweed production is from the mills of Harris Tweed Hebrides in Shawbost, Isle of Lewis, a company founded in 2007 and who have had success in extending the appeal of this “champagne of fabrics.” They export to more than 40 countries and supply designers like Alexander McQueen, Calvin Klein, Ralph Lauren and Steven Alan. While Harris Tweed has been mainly a fashion fabric in recent years, Harris Tweed Hebrides has broken new ground by supplying most of the interiors fabrics for Glasgow’s first five-star hotel, Blythswood Square, said to be the biggest interiors project since Harris Tweed was used in the fitting out of the ocean liner QE2 in the 1960s. The company has picked up two major honours: Textile Brand of the Year for 2009 at the Scottish Fashion Awards, and premier award for Outstanding Style Achievement at the Scottish Style Awards, reflecting a renaissance of interest in the fabric and its use by cutting-edge designers.
Every length of cloth is stamped with the official Orb symbol, trademarked by the Harris Tweed Association in 1909, when Harris Tweed was defined as “hand-spun, hand-woven and dyed by the crofters and cottars in the Outer Hebrides.”
Machine-spinning and vat-dyeing have since replaced hand methods, and only weaving is now done in the home under the governance of the Harris Tweed Authority established by an act of Parliament in 1993. Harris Tweed is now defined as “hand woven by the islanders at their homes in the Outer Hebrides, finished in the islands of Harris, Lewis, North Uist, Benbecula, South Uist and Barra and their several purtenances (The Outer Hebrides) and made from pure virgin wool dyed and spun in the Outer Hebrides.”
At Robert Smart Menswear in York we take great pride in stocking the very best in men’s Poggianti Shirts such as Poggianti Floral Shirts and Poggianti Patterned Shirts. Take a look at our fantastic selection of Poggianti Shirts for men today and find the perfect designer shirt for your wardrobe.
Since 1958 Poggianti have been designing men’s shirts. Their products are the result of classic Italian tailoring utilizing the finest fabrics and materials from such producers as Testa, Thomas Mason, Albini and Gerlin. Poggianti supply their shirts all over Italy and have trade partners in Belgium, Germany, United Kingdom, France, Greece, Holland and the United States. Poggianti present their collections in Florence and at ‘Made In Italy’ at the Collective in New York. Poggianti was born in 1958 as a collection of men’s shirts designed to a high standard under the philosophy of producing a truly ‘Italian’ made shirt. The brand continues to benefit today from the now 50 year rich artisan experience, including an absolute knowledge of fabrics, combined with an on-going search for unique style. Colours, stripes, prints and embroidery define the style of the collections, designed for the fashion –conscious modern man. Poggianti prides itself on quality, flexibility and service and believes it is these key features that have allowed them to grow steadily and to gain such a prominent place and widespread popularity in the market today.
Oliver Sweeney sell a wide range of footwear for men as well as selection of accessories including wallets, bags and shoe care products. Oliver Sweeney shoes are designed in England and hand made in Italy. Stylish and comfortable, Oliver Sweeney are the ultimate in mens statement shoes. Once worn you will become a true addict!
As worn by celebrities around the world, Oliver Sweeney shoes are the one piece of clothing that your wardrobe should never be without!oliversween
Life in the country is good. Smart Country clothing of York can make you look good from outdoor to office.
If you are looking for premier outdoor clothing brands like RM Williams and Barbour, York’s famed tailor Robert Smart brings country to Main Street with Smart Country. Smart Country is a premier outfitter of classic outdoor, shooting, and rural wear located in the heart of historical York. Come find us on Low Petergate, connecting York’s two major tourist attractions, The Minster and The Shambles. If you live abroad, you can have a piece of York’s one-of-a kind style delivered to your doorstep with Smart Country’s mail order option – connecting you to tweed in no time!
Nestled in the centre of Historic York, Smart Country is a trusted outfitter among Yorkshire’s Rural outdoor Community. Resident’s of Yorkshire rely on the fashion expertise of Robert Smart for daily wear and outdoor shooting apparel. Now the same rugged and tweed clothes that are beloved for exploring, shooting and rural living are available to you. Smart Country can fit your entire family in head to toe in Yorkshire style gear; from wooly jackets to streamlined tweed to breathable shooting attire. Retailer Robert Smart has stocked Smart County with the freshest looks from the iconic brands you know and trust including Barbour and RM Williams.
Barbour has been a respected name in UK apparel for over one hundred years; with its distinctive rugged look and unparallel durability. Barbour is a versatile line with soft stripes and tough tweeds. You will love browsing the classic tweed apparel and other items from waterproof coats, to comfort quilted jackets and from weather boots to weekday loafers. Ladies will love to stroll Yorkshire with a signature tweed carry-on shoulder bag from the Barbour line. The same great quality you know and love can now be passed on generation to generation with the Barbour children’s line featuring high quality tweed coats and accessories.
Born in the Australian Bush, RM Williams is world renowned. Since 1934, men and women of distinction have trusted their clothing needs to RM Williams while navagating the terrain and shooting. Today, From the Outback to the boardroom and everywhere life’s adventures take you in between Robert Smart is your connection to RM Williams. Get ready for outdoor adventures in RM Williams famous handcrafted boots or distinctive tweed jackets.
Whether you live in the country, or just love country living, nobody can outfit you like Yorkshire’s authentic country and outdoor living fashion store, SmartCountry. Don’t trust your tweed from any one other than Robert Smart, the name Yorkshire trusts.