Carl Gross from Robert Smart in York
For Fall/Winter 2013/14, the brand CARL GROSS at Robert Smart Menswear in York is presenting itself in conclusive theme and colour worlds which are structured into four quality groups to match the theme in question. COOL SHADES with the qualitites BRUSHED WOOL and CASHDREAM/WOOL & SILK inspires the business segment. RURBAN WEEKEND with the qualities NATURE COTTON & TWEED go to inspire that elegant casual look.
COOL SHADES In this colour theme the business looks appear in various shades of blue, from classic dark blue to marine shades, down to a vibrant cobalt blue. The second important colour range within the ready-to-wear range covers the shades from light grey to dark grey. Here, the trend colours Italian Plum, Berry and Frozen Blue are used to accentuate the Carl Gross collection at Robert Smart Menswear in York.
BRUSHED WOOL The boundaries between the ready-to-wear range and the omnipresent trend towards that casual look in menswear assortments are becoming increasingly blurred. Single jackets in particular profit from this mix of styles. For this “in-between“ look, the finishes and finishing processes are characteristic. Wool qualitites are pre-washed or are given a slightly used look, moving away from the extremely clean look to a vintage appearance, right down to a more voluminous and vivid finish with a soft feel. Thus, more familiar patterns such as herringbone and Donegal, but also plain fabrics and overchecks get a completely new image. Last but not least, the new fabric finishes in close interplay with innovative silhouettes and cuts bring the mix between formal and casual to perfection.
An increasing number of varieties ranging to shirt jackets, pullover jackets, unlined or semilined jacket types are characteristic for the collection image and the trend towards more nonchalance and leisure-time feel within the range. Patch pockets, sophisticated interior finishes, buttons in various colours, refined undercollars and time and again the still indispensable sleeve patch – however, not quite so much of a contrast as in previous seasons – enhance the “in-between” look. This look is even implemented in trousers in a smart manner. Here, washed flannels and sporty wool qualities are used. Sophisticated leather details on the pocket openings and individual lining solutions in the waistband give trousers that special flair.
With the Fall/Winter collection 13/14, the business segment has been extended to include outerwear. Down and quilting have been introduced into the ready-to-wear range and bring colour into play. The silhouettes are smart and elegant, the padding super-soft, with the finish resembling the typical “sandwich structure”. The cut of the protagonists in the “light version“ such as quilted jackets is oriented more towards the fitting of a slim blazer, thin quilted waistcoats worn under a jacket function like fashionable body-warmers and parkas with a fur-trimmed collar are a perfect match for business suits without looking excessively sporty.
Nevertheless, they still promise wind- and water-repellent properties thanks to their nylon oxford quality.
CASHDREAM/WOOL & SILK At first glance a little more glamorous, but equally relaxed –this is how business suits and jackets in wool blends with cashmere feel and wool-silk blends in tweed look, herringbone etc. appear. Elegance meets structure. Extremes are rounded off by sporty elements, especially as regards jackets. These include waistcoat inserts and waistcoat trimmings, stitchings and contrasting arrangements comprising technical qualities such as nylon and wool blends. The protagonists in this line are all-over stitched jacket types, but also upmarket wool qualities with rain system function. Sportswear appearing at its most elegant, providing new looks both also at coat and jacket level alike.
RURBAN WEEKEND In this theme, CARL GROSS at Robert Smart Menswear in York presents urban casual outfits with an elegantrustic flair. Here, elements from mountaineering and hiking, modern folklore and traditional anglophilic qualities blend to provide a stylish modern casual look for the city with a sporty touch. Sources of inspiration determine the colours within this theme. Thus, naturally warm colours such as brown, green and all shades of nature are in the focus here. Burned Orange, Leather Brown and Avocado Green blend harmoniously within the overall colour pattern. The latter accent colours stand out in a soft cotton-nylon quality, or in a down-filled outdoor parka with fur-trimmed hood.
NATURE COTTON Corduroy and wintry cotton are the qualities which lend themselves to nonchalance and a sporty feel. Last but not least, special washing procedures put the finishing touch to the qualities and ultimately the jackets themselves. Garment-washed is an important topic for the upcoming autumn/winter season. The cut: casual, slightly fitted, with semi-lining and patch pockets. Here, with the season’s colours, CARL GROSS at Robert Smart Menswear in York creates a whole symphony of shades. Regarding chinos and various types of trousers, PPI dyeing and washing processes ensure a soft look, nonchalance and a sporty feel.
TWEED Tweed is a must. This venerable quality has kept its rustic look over the decades, but today, new finishings provide a more sporty flair and a softer touch. Now, tweed is smarter than it was many years ago. An ideal quality for the theme “Rurban Weekend“. With overchecks, vivid colour insertions and in donegals shot with colours, tweed confers the necessary modernity on sporty jackets.
The silhouettes within the ready-to-wear range are oriented towards the degree of fashion, the model and the theme in question. Here, CARL GROSS offers two fittings to choose from. The Basic Fitting line stands for a slightly more conventional cut, whereas the Modern Fitting line focuses on “smart tailored”. Both lines got a fashion upgrade. In the Basic Fitting line, the jacket lengths were reduced moderately – by 1 cm – the lapel widths reduced and the shoulders finished more softly. The Modern Fitting line again features shorter jackets and more vertical shoulder lines with slimmer lapels to create an up-to-date business look.
ADDITIONALS FALL/WINTER 13/14 at Robert Smart Menswear in York
COOL SHADES (Shirts)
Business shirts appear primarily on a white background with discreet checks and striped patterns. They normally do not have a chest pocket. Compact yarns make the qualities look very classy. Non-iron, i.e. easy-care finishes are in the focus. Here, details such as contrasting patterns and colours are used in a very discreet manner. Business colours such as Black, Grey and Blue form the basis. Brown and Berry accentuate the garments. CARL GROSS at Robert Smart Menswear in York has supplemented the Basic Fit by a Modern Fit, thus expanding its range of fits.
RURBAN WEEKEND (Shirts)
Casual-oriented qualities with a structured finish are characteristic of the laid-back look. Garment washed look, trimmings made of contrasting qualities and decorative seams underline the nonchalant style. Earthy shades and spice colours follow the ready-to-wear range’s colour theme.
COOL SHADES (knitwear)
The basics such as garments with round neck, V-neck and cardigans are exclusively made out of the finest Italian merino wool. Here, discreet inlays are used for accentuation. A V-neck with cable pattern in a merino cashmere blend completes the elegant knitwear portfolio. The classic colour code: Black and Night blue!
RURBAN WEEKEND (Knitwear)
Melange yarns in finest merino wool appear with a sporty look which sets off colours such as Burned Orange and Leather Brown perfectly. Round-neck pullovers and troyer-type sweaters have a slightly more nonchalant silhouette. Contrasting knitted elements on cuffs, sleeve patches and button panels made of Alcantara are important details.
With its “Dark Indigo“ jeans, CARL GROSS does justice to the informal dresscode. Thanks to their slim-cut leg and discreet labeling, these premium jeans are a perfect partner for business blazers etc.
ACCESSORIES (ties, dress handkerchiefs and scarves)
Classic stripes and checks are characteristic for the entire range of accessories. In winter-time qualities such as pure wool, wool blends and silk, ties, scarves and dress handkerchiefs always match the colour range of the season perfectly.
Reliable, up-to-date, innovative brand CARL GROSS at Robert Smart Menswear in York- this brand represents 85 years of competence, experience and passion. The trademark is owned by Creation Gross GmbH & Co KG, a medium-sized family enterprise operating at an international level, which in 1991 – when the third generation came on board – transformed the classic menswear company into a global brand for modern business apparel and elegant casual wear.
Today the dress code of the brand CARL GROSS at Robert Smart Menswear in York is defined via fashionably interpreted classics – a symbiosis of Italian fabrics, international and current zeitgeist, innovation and traditional tailoring. Thanks to its convincing and attractive price/performance ratio as well as continuity, calculability and reliability, the brand CARL GROSS has aroused attention and gained appreciation worldwide – with trading partners and end consumers alike.
Relaxed suit and jacket models with added value – visible in the fabric qualities, in sophisticated details or the inside finish – not only provide for an upgrade in the upcoming season, but also for a new, modern City look.
Lively, structured and voluminous fabrics give Modern Businesswear a sporty touch. New finishes and blends provide function and optimized comfort. This is why the three collection themes - URBAN CASUAL, RELAXED CHIC and URBAN ELEGANCE, are primarily defined via fabric qualities offering special features and finish.
“FABRICS WITH CHARACTER”
The theme URBAN CASUAL is characteristic of the new “relaxed wear”. Here, suits for the summer come in cotton or diagonal structures with a soft feel and lightweight structures. Pale colours are in the focus. In addition to AMF stitching and inclined flap pockets, colour-coordinated elbow patches, undercollars with discreet colour base and integrated pockets lend the suits a sporty and elegant note.
As for the inside, slightly more contrast is preferred. Striped designs, contrasting edging ribbons,
inside pocket piping and sleeve linings lend value and emotion to the primarily half-lined models.
As for single jackets, summery linen and linen/cotton blends, double-face qualities and seersucker dominate the fabric range. Structure, volume and slightly crashed surfaces provide for innovation. The designs range from club stripes, reinterpreted in terms of colour, fineliners, pepita, herringbone, Prince-of-Wales check designs down to overchecks.
The modern jacket type is attractive thanks to deconstructed fits and soft finish. Inside reversed seams and overstitched sleeve heads are some of the features to this effect. Patch pockets with or without flaps, elbow patches (patched or inserted), sporty collar fasteners and undercollars in contrasting colours underline the sporty and casual look which is perfected by the golf pleat.
In contrast, there is the slightly more elegant jacket type. Slightly accentuated shoulders, inclined flap pockets including ticket pockets, contrasting or colour-coordinated buttons, and integrated pockets are characteristic features. Elbow patches and collars with colour base form are available as an optional range of features.
Whether sporty or elegant, the visual highlights are continued in the interior of both jacket versions.
Slightly more vigorous colours are chosen, which match the top fabrics harmoniously. Stripes and plain fabrics from the same colour range are mixed. Contrasting edging ribbons, piping and sleeve linings as well as inside pockets made of top fabric are indispensable details in this series.
The entire silhouette remains slim. The fashionable 2-button model continues to be the most important style.
The trousers tie in perfectly with the sporty look. 5-pocket versions and chinos with straight legs are available. Washed Pima cotton qualities play an important part. As for the interior finish, much attention has been paid to sophisticated details. Edging ribbons, a contrasting inside waistband or an unusual inner pocket lining emphasize the sporty look.
Colour range: from light beige shades to summer darks in brown shades, sober red and green as contrast as well as a wide range of blue shades
“INTELLIGENT AND FUNCTIONAL FABRICS”
Carl Gross in York RELAXED CHIC The new smart suit makes its appearance in upmarket and comfortable fabric qualities. Silk is gaining importance. Thus, wool/silk blends are characteristic fabrics used in this series. Increased elasticity and colour fastness make the new compositions for the Modern Business Segment so attractive. In addition to a luxurious touch, these blends are said to “breathe”, thus providing for enhanced climate and wearing comfort. Important criteria for business suits. Pin stripes and minimalistic designs determine the suit collection. Function comes via fabric qualities, modernity via fashionable designs and scene-setting. Inclined flap pockets, integrated dress handkerchiefs and intricate inner lining designs are in the focus. The suit silhouette remains moderately slim and the fashionable 2-button model is omnipresent.
The single jackets within this theme signalize sporty elegance. The means to ensure this include double-face qualities in wool/linen blends, pitted wool qualities with fresco weave offering a good grip and silky wool. Here, too, new impulses, comfort and function are provided via intelligent fabric qualities. The designs are marked by coloured overchecks, stripes and herringbone. A newlydeveloped “rolling 3-button model” has been added to the 2-button versions.
Sophisticated interior compositions continue to play a superior part. Here, colours and contrasts are the name of the game. Up to three colour schemes – always matching the top fabric harmoniously, reappear in the jackets. Fine stripes are mixed with plain fabrics. Piping, edging ribbons and AMF stitching accentuate the look.
Details such as felt collars with colour base, elbow patches in mixed patterns, contrasting sophisticated buttons and interspersed tucks underline individuality and provide emotions. Colour range: from beige to brown and a wide range of blue shades.
“QUALITIES WITH TANGIBLE ADDED VALUE”
URBAN ELEGANCE In this theme, CARL GROSS at Robert Smart Menswear in York presents suits, jackets, coats and co. with sartorial finish, uncompromising qualities and top-notch detail solutions. The series combines perfected tailoring with unobtrusive luxury and a passion for contemporary Modern Businesswear.
Premium qualities with tangible added value are in the focus. This is why fabrics made by the most renowned Italian weavers have been chosen exclusively for the suits. In addition to high-twist IWS qualities by Reda and Marzotto, washed wool qualities by Guabello, summery wool and linen blends by Subalpino and wool/linen blends with silk content by Vitale Barberis complete the fabric concept.
Finish and structured surfaces as well as volume come to the fore. Here, mohair looks, Délavé effects and slightly creped fabrics provide new impulses.
In addition to their fashionable appearance, most of the qualities, in particular the fabric range “Dream Wool”, offer valuable functional features. Good crease recovery, climate and wearing comfort are the most important factors integrated in the design of business suits and jackets.
The designs of the business series URBAN ELEGANCE range from summery stripes via Prince-of- Wales checks and herringbone down to fine, elegant pin stripes.
The silhouette remains slim and fashionable 2-button versions are in the focus. Preference is given to traditional summer colours. The colours range from beige to brown, all shades of blue, and grey.
Inside, linings in light colours provide liveliness and contrasts. Striped designs are matched with plain fabrics. Inner pockets with piping and edging ribbons accentuate the look. The integrated pocket rounds off the formal dress-code.
Classic business trousers as well as 1-button business coats complete the theme.